Specifications

Single bevel broadheads:

  • 100% stainless steel construction.
  • Blade: 0.50" thick 420 stainless steel, hardened to 50Rc.
  • Ferrule: 416 stainless steel
  • Dark finish on all parts to reduce glare
  • Blade attached to ferrule via permanently bonded swage process.
  • Single-bevel variable pitch cutting edge with 40 degree baseline.
  • Lifetime Materials & Workmanship Guarantee, when purchased from KuduPoint or an authorized dealer.
  • Manufactured entirely in USA with USA sourced materials

Standard #8-32 thread:

  • Contour 100 Grain: Width: 1.07" x Length 1.18"
  • Contour 125 Grain: Width: 1.25" x Length 1.40"
  • Contour 150 Grain: Width: 1.38" x Length 1.60"
  • Classic 100 Grain: Width: 1.06" x Length 1.12"

Micro-shaft #6-40 thread for Easton Deep-Six:

  • Micro Contour 100 Grain Width: 1.13" x Length 1.20"
  • Micro Contour 125 Grain Width: 1.28" x Length 1.50"
  • Micro Classic 100 Grain Width: 1.12" x Length 1.30"

The measurements above are nominal and may vary slightly between manufacturing lots.

Weight: Nominal -1.0 to +1.0 grains.

Heads are segregated and packaged into lots of the same 0.2 grain scale increment, providing customers with precisely matched head weights.

Axial runout: No discernable runout:

Our manufacturing and inspection processes insure that any head with excessive runout will be rejected. Our experience is that runout is almost always attributable to inferior or compromised inserts or damaged/miscut shafts.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between the Classic model and the Contour model?

The short answer: Shape and color.

Longer answer: The materials and basic specifications are the same, but we like the shape better. Our further refinement of production equipment allowed a continuous grind of the swept sides. This improved shape allows us to maximize width and length and strength for a given weight. The Contour model also has a refined ferrule-to-blade bond that yields a modest increase in pull-off strength.

We do miss the laser art found on the Classics, replaced by imprinting the weight and "Kudu" on the ferrule.

How do you sharpen these blades?

Andy's method: Treat it as you would your pocket knife - it is the same steel as found on many popular knives! The method I have used for years is to use a small cylindrical diamond hone. Bias the honing onto the edge by slightly tipping off the bevel angle or the back face. Use very light pressure! It can help to color the bevel facet with a Sharpie marker. Make sure to rub only on the edge, at as low an angle as possible, without touching the mark on the face of the bevel.

Erik's method: Save your sharpening time for hunting. When you get a dull or dinged blade make it a target blade and treat yourself to a new pack of blades with our super sharp factory edge! (You already knew this is the best method didn't you?)